30 Days Wild Plus A Few

So I’ve signed up for the Wildlife Trusts 30 Days Wild in June 2015 and thought I’d write a little blog. I’m starting a little bit early as really conveniently I happen to be travelling north all the way up to Orkney. Should be able to experience some Wild there for sure.

First stop (after an epic 11 hour journey up the motorways of England – urgh) the Crown Inn Hotel in Callander was a very welcome site. As was the River Teith. Salmon or Sea Trout were jumping and bats, swifts, swallows and martins were flying around in the evening. P1150221

The morning was even better a picture postcard day.

The drive through the Cairngorms was spectacular alas there was a ferry to catch so very little time to stop. Did get a glimpse of snow on the slopes above Aviemore.

P1150224Couldn’t pass Inverness without a quick look at the loch and a fairly chilly picnic on the shore watching for Nessie (of course). The drive up the east coast to Stromness was fabulous the sun came out again and the gorse was brilliant yellow.

A simply fabulous evening for a sail across to Orkney.

The sea was calm, the sun shone and the birds flew – gannets, guillemots, fulmars and numerous others nesting on the cliffs of Hoy. The Old Man looking on. P1150238

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2014 A Few Words and Pictures

January

P1070600A celebration to begin the new year with friends in Rye.

 

 

The weather was wild and windy – particularly at Dungeness a wild and dramatic place. P1070611

There was even a clear sunny day to follow.P1070656

 

 

A few  days later and the first wildlife sighting of the year. P1070661A common seal in the River Ouse near Lewes. A regular visitor apparently.

 

P1070677But the weather turned stormy again and the sea raged against the land.

 

 

Pushing the beach on to the promenade.P1070685

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Free To Air

Some spirits are born free to air,
They thrill, enchant spread so much love,
That when they pass to other adventures,
Our hearts are ripped apart.

But their essence lingers,
Their influence lasts,
Like the memory of a summer’s morning
When winter blows and blasts.

Like sparkles in a shaft of sunlight,
Their memory glitters
Even in the darkest of places.

Some spirits are born free to air,
Yet even when they’re gone
They send gentle breezes to ease
Our care.

© Ali Walters August 2013

 

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Please Sponsor Me

Thanks  to everyone who has sponsored me for my South Downs Way adventure. I hope you enjoy the posts below but just a little reminder before you go on. I walked the South Downs Way to raise money for Dolphin House so if you haven’t already and you can spare a bit of cash for this local Brighton Charity please do visit my Just Giving Site.

Thanks and enjoy the read.

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Reflections on a Long Distance Path

I’ve done a fair amount of walking in my life and explored places near and far. This however, was the first time I’ve ever walked a long distance path from end to end.

It really was a great experience to be able to appreciate the changing landscapes, the histories, the different uses and of course the length of time that the paths and the land has been trod and inhabited by humans.

It seems hard to think that the tops of these hills used to be; sanctuary from the wild, wooded valleys below and the super highways of their times for precious raw materials, goods and food. Or that they were witness to marching hoards of invaders, settlers from the continent and the sites of historic battles. Of course in more recent times they have been part of the front line defences against possible invasions and post war were farmed on a more intensive basis to make up for food shortages. It is far easier to understand that they have also been the home and inspiraton for many artists and writers.

These days it is still a working landscape but once up on the Downs you have a chance to get away from the hurly burly of 21st century life. The lack of noise pollution (yes it is possible to get away from the roar of the traffic) means you can  listen to the birds singing, bees buzzing around the wild flowers, wind blowing, squirrels rustling in the dead leaves, or the rain pattering on your waterproof. You can speed along them on a mountain bike or take a more leisurely stroll. Alternatively as many people do you can throw yourself off them and suspend yourself above the landscape soaring like a bird.

For me the South Downs are a place of inspiration and fascination. Doing the whole Way means I now have a long list of places I’d like to go back to and given the chance just to sit and absorb the essence of the place and scenery around and now I know where those perfect benches are!

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Day Nine – Exceat to Eastbourne

Or The End is Nigh

The forecasters proved right. After eight days of fabulous walking weather over the last month our luck finally ran out. High winds (force 6) and heavy rain – yay what an end to the journey. Still we were well fortified for the trip thanks to a hearty breakfast at the Exceat Farmhouse. A very pleasant and friendly place to stay.

Alison, the fabulous Dolphin trustee, joined us today determined to raise money for Dolphin House by hiking the last 8 miles or so wearing her wedding dress!

We didn’t hang about on the route admiring the view at all, it really was too blowy, rather a shame as I do so love this part of the South Downs. Strangely, it was easier to go up than down the Seven Sisters as their steep sides gave us some shelter from the elements determined to batter us. I have to confess we did stop for more fortification at the Birling Gap cafe but we had to meet up with Stephanie, who was finishing her cycle and walk of the South Downs Way for Dolphin House today too, so that was our excuse. For years the cafe here has been, in my mind, the worst cafe in the best place ever! However thanks to the National Trust it has become a much more desirable place to escape a howling gale.

The wind was against us all the way so this last bit was hard going but exhilarating. Somewhat damp and bedraggled we waited at the Beachy Head Inn for Steve to arrive and get hitched (again) three legged style to Alison! Ok and I confess we also stopped to have more fortification – well one has sample all the local delights surely? Next time perhaps we’d better just do a sponsored eat!

Anyway conditions really did deteriorate so the three legged mile idea was abandoned. Steve took the car on down to the start of the Way and lent me his waterproof as my flamboyant poncho had been shredded by a sudden gust of wind on Beachy Head. Alison, John and I scurried down the last stretch of the walk in even heavier rain than before. Typically once we got to the bottom it stopped. Still this allowed us to wring out socks, eat biscuits and take final photos before heading for home and a long hot bath.

It’s going to be strange getting up next week and not having to hop on a train or a bus to walk 10 – 12 miles, sampling the delights of tea rooms and local hostelries!

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Day Eight – Southease to Exceat

Or Toilets in Alfriston – Need to Know Basis

Another gloriously sunny day greeted us this morning after a quick train ride from Brighton to Southease. Crossing the lovely footbridge over another busy road (oh for more of these) we headed up towards a mainly flat stretch of downland. It was great to be walking along the top of the ridge from Itford Hill, past loads of tumuli along to Firle Beacon, Bostal Hill (another favourite spot for parascending and the sky was full of them this Saturday) and gently descending down to Alfriston. Once again there were fantastic views and conveniently placed benches this time at the Firle Beacon car park, for morning cups of tea. It was pretty breezy up top but the September sun was still warm and most pleasant so once we got off the hill.

We have chatted occasionally to people on the Way. Near the Greenwich Meridian on Thursday we were asked directions to the Juggs in Kingston, by a group of women celebrating a birthday. This involved some discussion as to how long it would take and a GPS app on a mobile phone. Today we had a brief encounter with a couple from Yorkshire (or somewhere like that) who’d just started walking the South Downs Way after having completed the North Downs. They’d really disliked that because there were too many trees and not enough views. Even the taxi drivers had told them it was a bad idea. John was quite surprised as he had fond memories of the North Downs Way and it is on our list of things to do at some point, but I digress.

On arrival in Alfriston we headed for the Clergy House to make use of the National Trust facilities – alas no plumbing there – well what do you expect from a house built in 1350? However, a kindly guide told us where to find locate a little known of rest room. I could tell you in an emergency where it is but that information is only available on a need to know basis!

We headed back to the Clergy House after making use of these alternative facilities and ate our sandwiches in it’s pretty and sheltered gardens. We took a tour round the house afterwards though struggled a bit with the amount of information one of the enthusiastic guides wanted to impart to us! It is a modest little place but I found it rather humbling that it had stood the test of nearly 8 centuries worth of time.

After extricating ourselves from the clutches of the guide we headed back to the Way for a pleasant stroll along the Cuckmere to Litlington, and we all know what awaits for the weary traveller there – no “To the Litlington Tea Gardens” sign required! It was busy there as you’d expect on sunny Saturday but the cream tea was worth the  wait.

As always our walk was nicely fitting in to the time allotted to it. Between Litlington and Exceat we were able to appreciate the gathering of starlings on telegraph wires, the church at West Dean and of course the iconic views over the Cuckmere valley towards the sea.

We ate at the Golden Galleon and spent the night at the Exceat Farmhouse B&B. I was hoping for a clear evening so we could look at the stars, alas the weather, forecast to be bad tomorrow, had started it’s change and the sky was obscured with clouds. Still it was a peaceful place to spend the night.

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Day Seven – Ditchling Beacon to Southease

Or Why Aren’t They Called the Ups?

Today started with a hot and student be-packed bus and a climb, up, down and up again to re-join the Way at Ditchling Beacon where we broke off yesterday. It seemed to take a fair amount of walking just to get started. But again once we were there, whilst there was a  bit more cloud than on previous days we were rewarded with fabulous views towards the sea and across the High Weald. You could even see the sea at Eastbourne and beyond to Pevensey. What stunning landscape to have on your doorstep.

Some of the days walk involved walking towards and past a large field full of poppies, it was a beautiful site to see them fluttering and waving in the breeze.

We were going to have lunch the other side of the A27 (thankfully crossed by a bridge these days) but were caught out by the sneaky hill which takes you through Bunkers Hill Plantation – just look at the contours on the OS map! After that we decided we needed fortification before going up the hill the other side of the road which would take us on to Juggs Road. Vegetarians look away now… as a treat for our lunch today I snook a small pork pie from Mr Archers into our picnic. My view is if you’re going to eat meat get it from the best shop in town – which Archers butchers is.

Ok Vegetarians safe to read on now.

I’m not sure whether the aforementioned lunchtime treat helped or hindered our climb up to Juggs Road afterwards, but after a bit of a slog we made it up to the top of the hill. How many more times can I go on about the wonderful views – well at least it’s not burial mounds and Hill Forts!

We did try and take in as much as possible but it is impossible with 360 degree views to absorb it all. Lucky for us that all this is in our back yard. I do hope we’ll be visiting for many years to come.

We walked along the top for a while admiring the views until we gently descended to the Greenwich Meridian marker post and so we crossed from the Western to the Eastern Hemisphere.

It was difficult to resist the simple sign “To the pub” just above Rodmell and we did divert there for a cup of tea and scones at the Abergavenny Arms – well there was a while before the next train from Southease so it seemed rude not too!

Once again fortified we stopped to visit the lovely Southease church before catching the train back to Brighton.

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Day Six – Upper Beeding to Ditchling Beacon

Or – Please Form an Orderly Queue!

Train and bus to our start point this morning. Catching one form of public transport is relatively straight forward but catching two and the stress levels start to rise. This was not  helped by just missing the first train we could catch to connect with the hourly bus to Steyning from Shoreham, then finding the second one was cancelled and the third one delayed to the extent that we were running round the corner to the bus stop just as it pulled up. Some would call that perfect timing, but not Miss I like to be at the stop/station/airport at least 5/10/30mins before I’m supposed to be Walters!

It was turning in to another fine day – walking up on the Downs really not a bad way to spend a Wednesday once the bus had deposited us at the bottom of the path just below Upper Beeding. Once again there were fine views back the way we came and we could see Chanctonbury Ring for ages. Just beyond Truleigh Hill which I’ve just discovered hosts a nuclear bunker, we were entertained to see sheep forming an orderly queue – though for what reason we couldn’t say.

Not far beyond that at Edburton Hill was a perfect bench with fabulous views, just right for second breakfast, and yet another field full of queuing sheep. That field was closely followed by one full of orderly marching pylons.

By this time we were heading towards Devil’s Dyke and despite it being a Wednesday the sky there was full of people hang gliding and parascending. More queuing but for airspace this time. We stopped to watch the antics of “Mad Nick” who managed to find a thermal which took him from nearly having to land at the bottom of the hill to soaring over our heads at the top. There were various shouts of how the **** did he manage that from on looking fellow hang gliders.

Just as we were approaching Saddlescombe Farm (unfortunately closed Wednesdays) we bumped into Christian one of the Homeopaths at Dolphin House Clinic it was nice to be seen actually doing the walk, but rather strange to have been seen crossing the road just as he cycled by.

We stopped for lunch just as the Jack and Jill windmills hove into view and watched the clouds drifting across the sky and mottling the landscape with patches of sun and shade.

From there we made our way rather slowly towards Ditchling Beacon our end point for the day as John was suffering slightly with pulled muscles. But we got there to see fabulous views right across to Haven Brow at Cuckmere Haven, the start of the Seven Sisters and still two days walk away (well at our pace anyway).

At the Beacon we headed off the South Downs Way and into Stanmer Park. The journey home involved alas a somewhat disappointing meal at Stanmer House and a few more forgotten things (water bottle carrier with water bottle and map) miles not to mention bendy bus confusion but we got home in the end.

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Day Five – Amberely to Upper Beeding

Or Location, Location, Location

From here on and over to Eastbourne we were treading much more familiar territory. After catching an earlyish train from Brighton we seemed to have travelled a fair way before actually getting anywhere. The train announcements suggesting we were approching a station we’d just departed from also led to feelings of deja vue. But high on the hill above Amberley we stopped at possibly one of our favourite points so far – Rackham Banks (late Bronze Age) from here there were fabulous views over the Arun valley, we could see Arundel Castle to the south and down to  Parham House to the north, what a fantastic landscape to have on your doorstep.

It really was a day for fine views Cissbury Ring (neolithic flint mines/Iron Age hillfort) seemed never far from view and the Way of course took us directly to Chanctonbury Ring (Bronze Age burial mounds and Iron Age hillfort). A great spot for a picnic, let alone a hill fort! The views this time were over towards the Adur valley, Truleigh Hill, Devils Dyke and beyond. Our trip was all there mapped out in front of us.

From Chanctonbury we traced our route through a landscape moulded and scarred by man (though on such a fine day even the Shoreham cement works looked picturesque – ok I exagerate!), not to mention sheep and pigs. We took our lives in our hands to end the day having to cross the A283 at rush hour but at least the bus stopped right at the bottom of the South Downs Way. It’s always nice to go door to door.

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